Surf’s up. I surfed today for the first time. Sweeeeeeeet! I took a lesson with Black Dog surfing, which was funny because I was wearing my Black Dog shirt from MV.
Anyway, the feeling of catching a wave on your own (albeit an already-foaming wave, on a 9-foot foam board) is pretty excellent. They had a photographer there and I have some great photos. Supposedly it is a LOT harder on the small fiberglass boards and also a lot harder to catch curling waves. I’m pretty exhausted after just a couple hours. No wonder surfers are all in phenomenal shape.
I could get used to this surfing thing. 
Not much else going on, just going to be getting another lesson tomorrow… it’s cheap to rent boards here so this might be a way of life until I come home.